Introduction to Tin Roofing
Page 1 - Roofing Materials
Page 2 - Roll Roofing
Page 3 - Roof Preperation
Page 4 - Joints
Page 5 - Joints (cont.)
Page 6 - Joints (cont.)
Page 7 - Roll & Cap Roofing

Page 8 - Roll & Cap (cont.)
Page 9 - Finish at Eaves
Page 10 - Finish at Hips
Page 11 - Flashing
Page 12 - Tin & Terne
Page 13 - Laying a Tin Roof
Page 14 - Conclusion


Standing-Seam Tin Roofing, An Introduction

Standing-seam tin roofing, sometimes called roll-tin roofing, can be used when the pitch is 2 inches or more to the foot. The roofing is brought to the
job in rolls, similar to roll roofing already described, and is laid in the same manner. The cross-seams are doublelocked usually, as at a in Fig. 20. The single-lock seam, as shown at n in Fig. 19, is always soldered, while the double-lock seam is sometimes left without soldering: This latter method should only be used with roofs of considerable pitch, however, as the seam is not tight, and there is a possibility of leaks occurring if the roof is nearly flat.
When the length of the strips necessary to reach from the eaves to the ridge is known, the strips can be made of that length in the shop, so as to save time and labor on the job.
The roofing may be painted on one or both sides before laying, as the cross-seams are soldered in the shop, and the standing seams do not require soldering. Painting on the under side is advisable in any case. The strips after being cut to the proper length have the edges turned up to form the side seams. The left-handed edge is turned up 1½ inches, and the right-hand edge 1¼ inches, as shown at ca and h in Fig. 59. These strips are held in place by cleats "c", placed not more than 12 inches apart. The higher
edge a, with the top of the cleat, is first bent over the lover edge of the adjacent strip, as shown in Fig. 60. The turned-over portions are again bent down as shown in Fig. 61, and finally folded tight, as in Fig. 62, making a double-lock seam about 1 inch high. Fig. 63 shows a portion of a completed roof, with the side and edge left unfinished, to show the method of applying the cleats and laying the roofing. It may be noted that this method is similar to doublelock standing-seam roll roofing.


The standing seam in Figs. 59 to 63 is shown folded over to the left. The seam might equally well be folded over to the right, by bending up the right-hand edge of the sheet the greater distance, and working from left to right across the roof Each course should be finished before starting the next.


The lower edge of the strip is locked into the gutter or caves flashing, in the same manner as described for flat-Seam roofing. At the ridges the upper 5 or 6 inches of the standing seam is flattened down to the roof surface, and the sheets from the adjoining roof surface are then locked into the first sheets, as in Fig. 36. The finish at the ridge may be the same as the standing seam of the roof, by allowing the strips to pass the center of the ridge enough to flange up 1½ inches on one side and 1¼ inches on the other, the seam being turned in the same manner as described for the standing seam on the main part of the roof. If a ridge roll is to be used, only ½ inch need be allowed for an overlap.


Hips are usually finished the same as the ridge, after cutting off to the proper angle.

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