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Now the 2x4's go in to support the plywood which in-turn will support the concrete untill it dries. You can also see the new 3" sewer line and two of the data conduits going to my office. Also the "curbing" has been poured around the edges to lock in the metal beems. This curb will also support the outer edges of the floor.
The common wall with the kitchen was capped with a nice steel I-beem. The future master bath will sit on top of this wall and I wanted that load transfered to the new footers via those two 4x4 columns and not the old house.
Here we are looking foeard from the back of the bathroom. You can see the conduit that feeds the kitchen. The red and blue wrapped pipes are the water feeds going upstairs to the only functioning bath at the time of this photo. Working with this type of been is great. It is "double channel" configuration with welded spacer blocks in the center. This design is first and foremost unbelievably strong and also very low profile.
The plywood starts to go down. You can see the "stub-outs" for the toilet on the left and the shower drain on the right.
The last beem against the door is in.
Underneith the floor in the new crawl space. I end up reconfiguring these drain pipes before the job is done. I sware I rebuild a third of everything I do in favor of better designs, newly aquired materials or unpleasant surprises when I open up another part of this house. After the concrete dries all this wood can be removed. I will probably leave it in place to have something to staple insulation to.
After the plywood was down I decided to put a skirt of PVC rubber around the edges so if there were ever a leak, it would turn inward and drip into the crawlspace and not out toward the wood of the house.
Hear you can see the 6x6 wire mesh, rebar and the PEX radiant heat tubing. You can also see where I roughed-in for a future claw foot tub. I taped over the these pipes which are just a little bigger than the two copper water lines and the drain pipe. The concrete level will be 3/4 inch above these pipe stubs. The theory here is that in the future I can crawl under the floor and pound a rod up from the bottom opening up the way for the needed plumbing. Or at least that's the theory. Also visible is the lowest course of fiber-cement board on the walls.
The concrete starts to go down.
Here is the shower curb. It was a lot tougher to level this floor than I thought. I have leveled much concrete in my day but not so much in a confined area where long handled tool could not be used.
Stainless steal RULES!
Why have PVC in the wall when you can go indestructible stainless! I was in walking through a house that was under construction in Rivers Bend, an up-scale neiborhood here in south Chesterfield when I noticed the builder put an eight foot length of cast iron waste pipe in the wall of the kitchen. It immediately made sense from a noise perspective but he didn't use cast iron elbows. I decided at the last minute (because I can't leave anything alone) to do one better. I went to my favorite scrap iron yard and baught 18 feet of 3" pipe and a couple of elbows as well as some 2" stock.
After some welding and a little grinding I had my heavy gage solid stainless steel waste stack in place. Because I was too lame to think of this before the concrete was poured I had to cut the pipe in two sections joined by a heavy rubber coupling. I had a couple of old cans of black rubber auto body undercoating so for extra sound deadening (as if it needed it) I sprayed some of the pipe as a test.
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